Many rabbit breeders unanimously argue that breeding rabbits in pits is a waste of time and energy. But there are also those who boldly object to them and make rather convincing arguments in favor of this method.
Pitfall breeding means keeping eared in special pits. Such conditions are as close to natural as possible, and animals multiply rapidly and increase living space due to dug burrows. To be honest, under the ground they dig themselves a whole system of holes. There they multiply and live.
They enter the pit only when they are hungry or, if necessary, emptied. With overcrowding, the length of the holes increases constantly. True, as they say leading in rabbit breeding, animals will never far away from the trough. Therefore, in very rare cases, the hole length exceeds 30 m. Under normal conditions, the hole length is no more than 20 m.
Breeding of Ushastikas in the pits sometimes threatens to escape animals through passages dug to the surface, but this is more likely a rarity. If eared is not threatened, then they dig their passages either down or straight. The procedure for grooming, feeding and catching eared animals is performed exclusively in the pit. This method implies that your rabbits will be almost completely taken care of themselves.
As already mentioned, when using the pit method of cultivation, animals are kept exclusively in the pit. At the same time, the pit of 2x2 m is quietly enough for 100 pcs. eared. For larger requests, we make other pits or pre-do more initial ones. A well with an approximate depth of 1 m is suitable for the method. The depth depends on the climatic zone and the slope of the soil.
Also depends a lot on the ground itself. You can not breed eared using this method on rocky soils or where there is a high level of surface water. In the first case, the rabbit will not life, and continuous torment. In the second - the animals will dig moves up to get away from the water and will definitely run away. Then it is not recommended to use the method in areas that are often amenable to floods and other natural disasters.
As the experience of the rabbit bosses has shown, for the pit method it is better to fence around the three walls of the dimple (concrete, mesh, slate, etc.). The fourth one also blocks itself, but a hole remains in it, which will serve as the entrance to the holes. Through one hole it is much easier to control the flow of animals when you need to inspect or catch them. Making more than one such hole is impractical. Then it should be large enough to simultaneously fit 2-3 adults.
Arrangement of rabbit pit
You can keep and grow your ears in a hole on any floor. The main thing is not to stink and he was easy to clean. You can get rid of unpleasant smell with the help of various simple tricks. The easiest and most effective is a 20 cm sand cushion, on top of which a small cell net is laid. Then the urine will seep through the sand into the ground and be completely absorbed. The second method to combat odor is ventilation.
What you choose is up to you, based on your requests and capabilities. Feeders and drinkers are placed directly in the pit. They should be large enough to feed and feed a large number of rabbits. They are located anywhere, but not high, because they will be fed from animals of different age categories.
Above the pit, it is desirable to fence and protect from water. Above the pit is always the roof or some kind of it. When using this method, the rabbits almost do not need sunlight, but still, it is better that he fell into a hole.
Is the winter content different from the summer?
Animals are in the pits in summer and winter equally. The thing is that in the summer, at the depth it is not hot, and in the winter it is not cold. Therefore, it turns out that the temperature is always almost the same and is in the range of 10-15 degrees Celsius. This helps eared avoid unnecessary stress and most diseases. Also, this method implies the complete absence of drafts.
At the same time in winter at home, females also give birth calmly as in summer. If it’s freezing in the courtyard above 30 degrees frost, then it’s not worth worrying about. The more krols you have in the pit, the better they will warm themselves with their own breath. However, during long frosty and snowy winters, it is better not to use this method. There will be persistent problems with melt water during the spring thaw.
- Saving of the area at the maintenance of a big livestock.
- Maximum approximation to natural habitat conditions.
- Females give birth much better and more calmly, and their maternal instinct is much better developed than with cellular rearing.
- Save money and time on care and the content itself.
- Significantly increased immunity and survival of rabbits. Some breeders do not even vaccinate their pets.
- Breeding animals in the pits, that is, their reproduction, occurs many times faster.
- With a large population of rabbits, they themselves fight rats.
- The main disadvantage is inbreeding or related mating. Over time, it will lead to degeneration. However, today this issue is easily solved.
- Inability to control mating. Here, too, there are two sides of the coin. On the one hand, in a livestock of 100 or more individuals, control of mating is unrealistic. On the other hand, if you start control right away, and not to wait until the livestock grows significantly, then success is quite realistic.
- Animals are raised by this method exclusively for meat. The thing is that the skins are usually dirty and scratched.
- Wild animals over time. Yes, indeed, if rabbits run wild, it will be very difficult to catch them. Also, difficulties in feeding and inspection.
- The inability to control diseases and routine vaccination.
We build ourselves
Making a pit for rabbits at home is easy and simple. But if you have at your disposal an unnecessary basement or other in-depth room, at least a meter and a half, then you will not have to dig a separate pit. It is enough just to figure out how to clean up the excrement, make a hole in one of the walls and arrange the feeders with the drinkers. That's all, you can run ushastik. And about what to do in the absence of such a room, read on.
Choosing a place for the pit. It should be slightly shaded. If you plan some kind of control over breeding, it is better to immediately dig two holes. In one there will be females selected for brood, their babies and the male sire, in the other - the rest individuals. The distance between the pits should be more than 20 m. Also remember that trees, houses without basements, wells and even a toilet will not interfere with your pets. But the place must be on a high ground so that the water does not flood and there is no close groundwater surface.
- We dig a pit with a calculation of 2x2 m for an amount from 100 to 200 heads. Based on your considerations and requests, you can choose a different area. The depth must be at least 1 meter, and preferably 1.5 m. The shape of the pit may be different, but in the rabbit breeding, the shape of the rectangle is mainly used.
- When the pit is dug you need to take care of the walls. They can be made of any material, the main thing that the animals do not gnaw it. The most simple and less expensive would be the use of slate sheets. Three walls are tightly enclosed with slate or sealed with other material, for example, concrete. Drawing pits for rabbits
- The fourth wall is also enclosed with slate, but at the same time it is necessary to make a hole in it. It will serve as the entrance to the hole. It is also necessary to dig in the entrance a little so that the rabbit can see where to start digging. You need to dig or down, or straight, but not up.
- Now you need to take care of the field. The urine of rodents is quickly and easily absorbed into the ground, so it’s enough to fill in 20 cm of sand, and lay a net with a small cell on top of it. Urine will easily go into the ground, and the rest of the excreta along with the earth can be easily removed with a shovel. And thanks to the grid, rabbits will not be able to dig additional holes.
- We put a shed with a shed roof over the pit. The bias should be in the opposite direction from the entrance to the hole.
- We enclose a hole so that various pests could not make their way, for example, dogs.
- Install troughs and drinkers.
- At this stage, you can already run rabbits in their new housing. But before that, it is still advisable to make a door at the entrance to the hole, so that later it can be closed if necessary.
Photo GalleryPhoto 1. A slightly dug hole at the entrance Photo 2. A nest of female Photo 3. Pit maintenance
Video "How are eared in pits"
In the next story, we propose to see what a homemade rabbit hole looks like. An experienced breeder will tell and show you where his feeding bowls and troughs are located, where the eared birds come from and how they live.