The modern mini-farm for rabbits solves two main tasks - full feeding and comfortable maintenance. Proper organization and arrangement of domestic rabbit farms allows to achieve high results. Whether it is possible to breed animals in the open air or only indoors, how to organize their effective feeding and hygiene - this beginning farmer should be thoroughly understood at the very beginning of the activity.
Varieties of mini-farms
The Mikhailov longline cellular construction is the basis for arranging many popular rabbit farms. Based on simple drawings, each person can build mini-farms of country, home-made, decorative, and even industrial type rabbits.
Unlike a large industrial economy, household, country constructions do not demand special expenses for materials, construction. If everything is properly arranged in accordance with the developed principles, then they can be served by one person who needs to spend time 2-3 times a week.
Cottage and ornamental rabbit mini-farms are not intended for year-round animals, therefore their design is relatively simple. At arrangement of such cells it is not required to care about heating, warming of a uterus.
On the other hand, autonomy and high functionality are important qualities of all cellular structures. This allows you to effectively engage in rabbit in the warm season, without spending too much time on maintaining the sanitary conditions of the animals.
Rabbit mini farm design
The choice of the type of cell farm depends on the capabilities of the person, the scale of the farm, its goals. Modern industry offers turnkey solutions, but they have significant drawbacks. Often, poor-quality materials can provoke animal diseases.
The standard mini-farm design for rabbits consists of the following parts:
- a stand that supports cells above cold ground;
- free-standing cells equipped with a feeding trough and bulk drinker;
- nest compartment;
- the upper tier, consisting of uterine and jigging compartment;
- bunker feeders, increasing the autonomy of the animals;
- a collection of rabbit feces.
To keep rabbits at low temperatures, it is recommended to equip a water heating system on the farm that functions automatically.
Due to its compact size, such a structure can be placed under the wall of the house, in the backyard, in the dacha, inside the closed room.
Necessary tools and materials
For the construction of its own mini-farm will require the most common materials. For example, a bar section of 20x40 mm or 30x40 mm and a length of 2 m. It is recommended to process boards, picket fence, bars, plywood with special impregnations against fungus, mold and pests. You will need a metal mesh, galvanized iron, slate, roofing felt, paint, as well as nails, screws.
At all stages of assembling the complete construction of a mini-farm for rabbits, you will need to use a hacksaw, an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver, a drill, metal shears, a hammer, and pliers.
A rabbit farm is a complex structure, therefore, in its manufacture it is important to rely on clear drawings, in which all the nodes and connections are presented in detail.
At the same time, details like bunker feeders are best made using special stencils.
Location and base of the farm
A ready-made structure for keeping eared pets can be purchased, but in order to save money, you can make a farm for rabbits with your own hands. This does not require special skills, so there will be no particular difficulties.
When installing, make a solid wall on the north side. When the rabbit is kept open, it is recommended to warm it further. South should go mesh surface with a door, feeder and watering. For greater stability, the entire structure should be placed on a solid concrete base or asphalt.
It is better to have several farms under one common roof. It is important to equip the places of detention of rabbits at a sufficient distance from the premises. Quality materials, strict adherence to the installation technology will ensure a long life of the farm.
Construction must begin with a reliable, stable stand, which is best made from especially durable materials. Four bars should be stapled vertically between each other, and under the pedestal place the pyramidal shaft for removal of rabbit feces, which ends in a container for their collection. Base sheathe plywood or fiberboard.
The device of the lower and upper tier
Directly above the stand should be the first tier of the farm. On the left side, instead of a solid wall, you need to build a mesh fence with a window for inspecting rabbits. The floor of this section should be placed at an angle of 45 degrees, leave small gaps, and sheathe the bottom with iron.
The entire lower floor should consist of a nesting department for rabbit and free-standing compartments. The first is required to be carefully warmed, to install a door in the form of a shelf for easy access to the little rabbit. The continuous warmed floor should be located below the level of the first floor. Movable doors are used to isolate this segment.
Feeding troughs and drinkers for rabbits are installed in the walking area. It is important to equip a slotted floor to remove food waste and faeces.
The upper tier can be made in two versions. In the first case, it is a jigging compartment for rabbits of different sexes, and in the second, the uterus department of an auxiliary purpose. All cells at the top of the farm are connected by removable partitions. With their help, you can add males to individual rabbit.
Thus, the rabbit mini-farm consists of a ventilation pipe, a sloping single-shed roof made of roofing material and slate, sections for keeping rabbits, a feeding trough, a heated drinker, a pallet, a mine for removing waste products and food residues, an accumulation box for them.
Types of feeders and drinking bowl for a rabbit mini-farm
Office for drinking tanks have outside. Through the outer door there is a change of the canister. The drinking bowl itself is installed so that food waste and other garbage do not fall into the water. It is a water filled canister turned upside down on a dish. Due to the small opening in the bottom of the drinking tank, the water level is kept constant.
The dish is partially hidden from the rabbits due to the location inside it of the inaccessible part of the automatic electric heater, which at low temperatures heats the water. It is necessary to add water approximately once a week.
Department for granulated feed is better placed next to the drinker in the hole between the flooring. Inside it is a sieve through which only the smallest particles of feed can get onto the pull-out tray. It should be cleaned periodically.
Rabbits have access to the feed through a special inner window with a small curb. Outside the trough has a wedge-shaped form, in the wide part of the top there is a door for loading the combined feed. Edible granules need to be added about once a week.
The feeder with roughage is hung on the structure outside on two levels and is a bunker through which hay and roots are laid on top. To make the feed better pushed through, it is recommended to make the top lid heavier.
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