Keeping in cages is the most convenient and effective way of breeding rabbits. This is especially true of the livestock fed for slaughter. To create the most comfortable conditions for the animal to gain weight, it is necessary to provide convenient, practical and easily serviced cages. Of course, they can be purchased ready-made, but it is much more profitable from an economic point of view to make them personally. Let's try to figure out how to make cages for fattening rabbits with your own hands from scrap materials.
Features feed house
Young grown-up rabbits settle out from mother at the age of 30-45 days. By this time, the rabbit lactation stops completely, the kids are already growing up enough, gaining a certain weight and are ready to eat on their own. At this age, the question arises of the relocation of the younger generation to other cells. Rabbits can be seated one at a time both into adult cells and into intermediate cells. If you chose a hostel for 5-10 teenagers, it is worthwhile to make sure that the animals are same-sex.
The dimensions of the joint cage should be approximately as follows: 120x70x50 cm. At the same time, each tenant must account for at least 0.12 square meters. By simple mathematical calculations, it can be determined that no more than 8 rabbits can be accommodated in one joint "apartment". If we are talking about giants - no more than 5-6.
Even if you chose to fatten together, at the age of 3-4 months, rabbits will still have to be seated in separate “apartments”. Males, entering into the period of puberty, will not be able to get along even two by two. Permanent fights can lead to serious injuries and even the death of one of them. Young females get along and two. A single apartment should have an approximate size of 35x40x50 cm, and in a cage of 50x50x50 cm you can keep animals in pairs.
The peculiarities of the feeding house are to prevent the rabbits from actively moving, and the owners to have the opportunity to feed and serve the residents without any problems. Young animals for fattening are kept only in mixed feeds and sometimes in hay. This should be considered when designing feeders. In addition, pets should have enough water, so you should provide a system of nipple drinkers or regularly change their water manually.
Making your own hands
If you are familiar with the basics of joinery, it will not be difficult for you to build bunny houses for fattening rabbits, even without additional schemes. Everything can be used in the course: hard wood (so as not to gnaw), plywood, bars, slate, wire mesh, linoleum for roofing, etc.
From the netting, it is not recommended to make the bottom of the cage for permanent residence, as the legs of animals on it often get sick. But young animals for fattening will not be in such cells for more than 3 months, so you can safely assemble the construction from the grid. The main thing is that the wire from which it is made was galvanized. Otherwise, the metal will very quickly rust through due to constant contact with urine.
The size of the grid cells should also be given special attention. Cells should be large enough so that droppings and other waste can crumble easily through them. But at the same time, the legs of rabbits should not fall into them. The ideal cell sizes are 18x18 mm, 20x20 mm or 16x48 mm.
Grids with larger cells should not be taken even for giants. The animal will simply not be comfortable and it will stop gaining weight. As a rule, a large population of rabbits is left at the bottom, therefore we will consider an example of a fattening dormitory in three floors with two rows on each.
Tools and materials
To start work on the fattening department, you must have:
- wooden beam;
- mesh and metal rivets to it;
- tin sheets for waste disposal;
- hinges and latches for doors.
From the tools we need:
- screwdriver for fastening hinges and latches.
Depending on the size of the cells and the height of the cell above the ground, it is necessary to calculate the amount of materials. The drawing below shows our future cell with dimensions.
Step by Step Installation Instructions
- First you need to collect from bars frame. The wooden bars are sawn according to the above scheme and assembled on nails. With the help of a file, you can make inaccurate cuts aesthetic look.
- The length of the legs (that is, the distance from the ground to the floor of the lower floor) must be at least 50 cm so that it is convenient to clean the waste.
- Under the third and second tier, it is necessary to build ramps for waste from tin, and be sure to wrap their edges. The result should be such a construction:
- Once the frame is ready, you can proceed to the manufacture of the cells themselves. To do this, the mesh is fragmented into rectangles, which are then assembled on rivets. To make double sections, it is necessary to build cells from a grid of 285 x 135 cm in size. Single, naturally, are half the size.
- To save on the grid, you can assemble the whole “apartments” through one, and then connect the space between the installed cells with floor and ceiling from additional grid cuts.
- To fix the doors, it will be necessary to insert a wooden beam between each cell. Two parallel loops are attached to the bars for reliability, and on the opposite side there is a latch.
- The door itself is easy to assemble from four bars with nails and cover the frame with a grid, as shown in the figure below.
- If you plan to install the cage on the street, you will have to build a roof. For gathering rainwater, roofs are made not flat, but at an angle. In our case, the deadloader has two rows of cells, which means that the roof will be double-slope. It can be laid with slate residue, tarpaulin or linoleum.
- Feeders in this design are installed inside the cage, you can put hay on top of the grid. For water, it is better to install a nipple drinker or attach mounted on the door.
- For convenience of cleaning under the lower floor, you can substitute a pallet of tin.